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Services on the rates: how the Settlement got fire engines, water, light and schools

Nine stories on what the rates bought: a fire brigade, piped water, electricity, trams, a health office, markets, schools and a band.

A town is not its monuments. It is water that can be drunk, streets that are lit, fires that are put out and food that can be bought without cholera. Nineteenth-century Shanghai had none of this by default: river water was carried to the door in buckets and settled with alum, and until 1866 each trading house put out its own fires.

These nine stories follow how the Settlement bought those services, one by one, out of the rates and licence fees its Council collected — and how often it chose a franchise company over doing the work itself.

Fire starts with a single engine imported in 1863 and the volunteer brigade of 1866 that took the motto We Fight the Flames. Water follows the argument that began at the ratepayers’ meeting of May 1875 and ended with filtered water under pressure. Power is the Council’s own electricity station; trams the franchise that finally got the Settlement moving; rickshaws the licensing system that regulated the vehicles the trams never replaced.

Health is the officer whose year ran from smallpox season to cholera season; markets the long campaign to move food off the street and under a roof; schools the municipal system that grew out of a single orphanage; and the band the one service nobody strictly needed, paid for on the rates anyway, and the municipal orchestra it grew into.

Each part stands alone. Together they show where the money actually went — and why the receipts for it are still visible in the streets, from substation buildings to covered markets.

Read in order

  1. Part 1 · Fire

    We fight the flames: the Shanghai fire brigade from volunteers to professionals, 1866–1932

    Merchants' clerks with a Meneely bell and a steam launch, fires that took houses by the hundred, and the day in 1919 the last 44 volunteers resigned.

    12 min read

  2. Part 2 · Water

    How piped water came to Shanghai, 1875–1913

    Until 1883 Shanghai drank settled river water. The Council's reports record the 1880 concession, the first taps, the bills and the shares it took in 1905.

    16 min read

  3. Part 3 · Power

    The Council's own power station, 1893–1929

    Bought for 66,100 taels on a vote of 25 to 14, grown into the biggest plant in the Far East, sold for 81 million: the Settlement's electricity business.

    13 min read

  4. Part 4 · Trams

    The first trams, 1905–1928: how the Settlement got moving

    Refused in 1898, running by 1908 from the Bund to Jing'an Temple. The Council's files record the fares war, the accidents, the 1918 riot and the bus.

    15 min read

  5. Part 5 · Rickshaws

    Licensed to pull: rickshaws, wheelbarrows, sedan chairs and motor cars, 1874–1934

    The Council licensed everything on wheels. Its tables count 31,439 rickshaw licences in 1887, 10,000 capped in 1924, five cars in 1903 and 8,073 in 1932.

    13 min read

  6. Part 6 · Health

    The Health Officer's year: smallpox, plague, cholera and the milk cart, 1871–1932

    What the Council's doctors counted: free vaccinations by the thousand, the plague scare of 1910, cholera summers, adulterated milk and the death rate.

    15 min read

  7. Part 7 · Markets

    Markets and hawkers: how the Council tried to get Shanghai's food off the street, 1880–1932

    From a market in the Nanking Road roadway to sixteen municipal markets and 26,000 hawker prosecutions a year: fifty years of housing the food trade.

    13 min read

  8. Part 8 · Schools

    The Council's schools: from a Eurasian orphanage to fifteen municipal schools, 1870–1932

    What the Settlement thought it owed its children: a Eurasian school, a Public School taken over in 1893, a Chinese boys' school in 1904, the rule of 1911.

    14 min read

  9. Part 9 · The band

    The Town Band and the Municipal Orchestra: music on the rates, 1879–1932

    Twenty-one musicians from Manila in 1881, a German conductor in 1906, an Italian in 1919, and ratepayers who twice voted to keep paying for the orchestra.

    12 min read

Everything on one map

Every place the parts mention. Numbers run through the parts in reading order.

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