Topic
Where the lines ran: how the settlements grew, and how the French side was ruled
Four stories on the lines themselves: how the settlements grew from 830 mu, where the boundaries ran, and how the French Concession was governed.
Every “former French Concession” café and every heritage plaque on the Bund stands inside a line that someone once argued over. This topic is about the lines themselves: where they ran, how they moved, and why the two sides of the Yangjingbang creek ended up governed in two different ways.
How they grew is the base map. It starts with the Treaty of Nanking in 1842 and the Land Regulations of November 1845, which set aside about 830 mu of riverbank for British merchants, and follows each extension from there — British, American, French, and finally the combined International Settlement.
Boundary stones walks the edges: the markers that fixed where the Settlement ended, and the roads the Council built past them into territory it did not control.
Consul versus council and the French system cross the creek. The French Concession looked like its neighbour, but it answered to a different master: its council sat under the French consul, and the two clashed. The first story covers the showdown of its early decades; the second, the règlement under which the Concession was run.
Read these four first and the rest of the site falls into place: the historical map shows every boundary in this topic drawn over today’s streets, and each settlement has its own page under the foreign settlements.
Read in order
Part 1 · How they grew
How Shanghai's foreign settlements grew, 1845–1943
How the British, American, French and International settlements grew from 830 mu in 1845 to 48,000 mu by 1914, boundary by boundary.
15 min read
Part 2 · Boundary stones
Boundary stones and outside roads: where the Settlement ended, and where it didn't, 1893–1940
Forty stones set in 1893, a line the police could not see, forty-eight miles of roads beyond it: how the edge of the Settlement was marked and crossed.
15 min read
Part 3 · Consul versus council
Consul versus council: how the French Concession was governed, 1848–1875
A merchant's 2.4 mu, a council of five dissolved by its consul, the règlement of 1866, and the riot of 1874: the French Concession's first thirty years.
12 min read
Part 4 · The French system
How the French Concession was run: the consul, the council and the règlement, 1849–1943
The other Shanghai: a concession run by a consul-general who chaired, convened, vetoed and could dissolve its council, under rules of 1866 kept to 1943.
13 min read
Everything on one map
Every place the parts mention. Numbers run through the parts in reading order.
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Places to see

Bridge· 1906–1907
Waibaidu Bridge
外白渡桥Wàibáidù Qiáo
Riveted steel truss bridge of 1907 over the mouth of Suzhou Creek, the first steel bridge on the creek; its name recalls a toll-free crossing of the 1870s.

Building· 1925–1927
Customs House
上海海关大楼Shànghǎi Hǎiguān Dàlóu
Shanghai's 1927 Customs House by Palmer & Turner, whose clock tower, with a Joyce clock first struck in 1928, still sounds the hours over the Bund.

Park· 1952
People's Park Marriage Market
人民公园相亲角Rénmín Gōngyuán Xiāngqīn Jiǎo
A weekend gathering in People's Park where parents post notices to find partners for their unmarried adult children.

Park· 1909
Fuxing Park
复兴公园Fùxīng Gōngyuán
A park laid out by the French Concession authorities and opened in 1909, with a French formal garden, a Chinese garden and a Marx and Engels statue.

Site· c. 1553
Dajing Pavilion
大境阁Dàjìng Gé
The last surviving stretch of Shanghai's 1553 county city wall, topped by a three-storey Guandi temple pavilion that now holds a small old-city museum.
Also on this subject
Who could vote: the ratepayers' meeting, 1869–1941, and the jubilee of 1893
A city of a million run by a few thousand votes: the franchise in the Land Regulations, the polls, the meetings without a quorum, and the jubilee of 1893.
The outside roads: how the Council built beyond its boundary, and who policed it, 1862–1934
Bubbling Well Road in 1866, 13 miles of outside roads by 1893 and 48 by 1932: how the Council built past its line, taxed there, and fought over the police.
Sources
- 1.Shanghai Concessions Gazetteer, Part 1 ch. 1 §1: Establishment of the settlements (上海租界志·第一篇 境域人口·第一章 租界境域·第一节 租界设立), 上海市档案馆(编), 上海社会科学院出版社;上海市地方志办公室数字方志(在线), 2001 — 一、英租界gazetteer
- 2.Shanghai Concessions Gazetteer (Shanghai zujie zhi): General survey (上海租界志·总述), 上海市档案馆(编), 上海社会科学院出版社;上海市地方志办公室数字方志(在线), 2001 — (一)gazetteer